It’s been a while since I wrote about whisky – which coincidentally was also an Ardbeg, in this case the 8yo aptly titled ‘Up For Discussion” – at The Ardbeg Embassy in Stockholm.
Today, I was sat with Anthony at the same Ardbeg Embassy and he was kind enough to pour me a dram of the soon to be released 15yo Ardbeg Trudernish.
I always say whisky is sunlight held together by water but this was bolder, almost liquid gold in a glass; the sort of colour that makes you wonder why whisky bottles bother with fancy labels; the colour was selling point enough for me.
The nose is unmistakably Ardbeg (like the carbolic acid in Lifebouy soap from the olden days – and that’s not negative) but in this version, it feels like someone has turned the volume down a notch. Earthy peat and soft woodsmoke sit beneath a creaminess I couldn’t put a finger on, there’s definitely a honey-like sweetness and a touch of pine resin. There was also some fruity freshness and at this juncture I admitted to myself that my palate was no longer as good as it used to be else I’d tell you which fruit. To add, there was a bit of a bite like pepper and dried greenery.
Then there’s the good stuff hiding underneath: a hint of fudge, damp forest wood and something vaguely citrusy. It’s sweet, smoky (of course) and surprisingly approachable without ever forgetting which island it comes from – Islay in case you’re have been living under a rock.
The first sip was creamy and properly full-bodied.
It needed a drop of water and after adding a couple of drops, I felt that the creaminess I could smell may have been vanilla and fudge or toffee, what followed was burnt baked fruits, some toasted seeds or nuts and a little bit of Cadbury’s chocolate. Then came an unmistakably Swedish flavour (maybe because I’m in Sweden): liquorice! Then again, that could also be because there’s a liquorice shop across the Ardbeg Embassy. There was also a minty sweetness but just a flash giving it a bit of lift.
And then the peat gets involved.
Not the usual Ardbeg assault on the senses. This is softer and more petrichor, more damp earth, there’s also something reminiscent of wet campfire wood in there rather than a flaming tyre factory. There’s still plenty of smoke, but fifteen years have clearly taught it some manners.
The sherry cask influence is not to be missed and we know too well what they do. But here it’s a touch of char, some spice and nuttiness adding depth without turning the whisky into a sherry bomb. Or maybe I am saying so because I have just numbed my palate over the weekend with Portugese wines including some outrageously great port.
For me, the finish is where it really settles in.
Long, smoky and warming, with peat, toasted nuts and what I have been thinking is vanilla lingering together. The liquorice note still hangs around at the edges before the whole thing gradually dries into the signature woodsmoke and malt. I actually coughed a little here and had to drink some water to get speaking again.
There’s something rather satisfying about this one.
Still unmistakably Ardbeg, but older, rounder and considerably less interested in punching you in the face.
Basically, like Ardbeg went to therapy for fifteen years.
